The Best Thing

So this past weekend we traveled by train to Amritsar, Punjab. It was a fantastic experience. We went with Mr. Jolly’s, Maitir’s director, daughter Neti. She was a great travel companion and was very helpful. We were very lucky to stay with the General’s brother at the hostel he and his wife run. They have the most fantastic chocolate lab named Bruno who immediately became my best friend in the world.

Our main goal for the trip was to see the Golden Gurdwara (temple), which is the most important temple for the Sikh religion. It really is an amazing structure. However, I actually enjoyed Jallianwala Bagh more. Or at least found it more meaningful.

Jallianwala Bagh is what you could call a park. It is where the 1919 Amritsar Massacre occurred. During India’s independence movement a large group of peaceful protesters gathered here. I am not sure on the exact number but it was well over a thousand. Jallwianwala Bagh is a clearing that is completely enclosed by buildings. You can enter, or exit, only by going through a narrow alleyway. British General Reginald Dyer led over one hundred solders through this narrow passage, stationed his men in front of it, and then without giving warning ordered his men to fire into the densely packed protesters. Six hundred and fifty rounds were fired. The soldiers were instructed to shoot to kill. I am not sure on the exact causality count but it was hundreds upon hundreds. Many of the protestors jumped down a well to escape the bullets. When it was all over something like one hundred twenty people were at the bottom of the well dead. It is now called the well of Martyrs. Just beyond the well you can still see holes in the brick wall created by the bullets the martyrs were trying to escape.

If you have seen the 1982 Gandhi movie then you have seen a cinematic portrayal of this event. I remember seeing it when I was in middle school. I know it was just a director’s interpretation of the real event but it has been ingrained in my mind ever since. It was amazing to actually be there and ponder what had occurred there.